Most pines, cypresses, and thujas grow incredibly fast, and make a great quick fix for most of your garden needs.
A tall pine like a Loblolly or rock pine can reach impressive shade tree heights in a third of the time that it might take many deciduous trees to reach the same height. And, the long dark green, wispy needles give an ephemeral look, making your garden feel like the setting of a great fairytale.
Thujas, also known as "Arborvitae," are the fastest growing evergreens around. There dense green foliage is perfect for blocking outside sites, sounds, and wind–turning your garden into a sanctuary from the hustle and bustle.
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Trees, especially evergreens make great privacy fences. There are a few varieties that really stand out when you think about privacy fences–They each have their own list of benefits and faults.
Arborvitae or Thuja varieties like “Green Giant” and “Steeplechase” are the fastest growing conifers, growing 3 to 5 feet in one year. They are incredibly dense, require very little maintenance, and give your garden that very desirable elegant evergreen look at a relatively low cost. And, they are hardy to a wide range of climates. Thujas are very symmetrical and require no pruning—they may be pruned for hedging or topiary designs, but are beautiful if untouched.
Hemlocks, very popular in Canada and Northern USA, are the most cold-hardy of the privacy trees, surviving well into the arctic. They do not tolerate warmer climates well, and they are vulnerable to a few pests. However, they are excellent privacy trees with distinct foliage and a long tradition of use in landscaping. And of course, the ever-popular southern alternative, the Leyland Cypress, which stays tough in the hottest and most humid regions of the country.
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The weather in some parts of the country (especially here in SC – 100 degrees F today) is just about as hot and dry as its ever been. Many of your garden plants are suffering, if they are still alive. To struggle so hard to achieve a perfect garden, and lose some of your most beautiful plants is very difficult. I’ve noticed that many of the Japanese Maples around town are drying up and scorching – even here at Wayside Gardens where we have a team of people constantly maintaining the grounds. A lot of our plants were hit by a late frost and then beaten by this super-hot summer.
Japanese Maples valuable, and they are usually the stars of any garden. So, if you are going to attempt to keep yours healthy this summer the most important thing to remember is that maples are very thirsty trees with shallow roots, and they will dry out quickly if not watered frequently. Make sure you have well-drained soil– amend with sand or bark if your yard is mostly hard clay. Mound up with good top soil to ensure good drainage. Water well at least three times a week, and make sure not plant your tree in direct sunlight or wind that may cause it to dry more quickly. Fertilize once at the beginning of each season with a go all-purpose slow-release fertilizer.
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A slew of things could be getting between you and the juicy, delicious fruit you were promised when you planted your fruit trees. Here are the main culprits and some tips on how to deal with these common, yet frustrating issues.
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Winter’s icy mitts still have a stranglehold on most of the country, and countless gardeners are tapping their feet and wearing out their gardening catalogs. So, for those of you itching to get some green on your hands, here’s a little late-winter project that will brighten your home!
You are going to have to prune your trees anyway, so why not clip off a few nice branches with some plump buds and bring them in the house. You can force these branches to bloom and bring a little springtime ambiance into the abysmal botanical breach of winter.
This is a simple little project that anyone can do, at least that’s what the Wayside Gardens Horticulturist said. After your blooming trees have had time to overcome dormancy, usually around 8 weeks of winter weather, cut off a few branches that are a good length for displaying indoors, a foot or more. Make sure you get pieces with plenty of buds, and you will know when it’s time to cut them because the buds will have started to swell. Make sure you cut the ends at a slight angle to ensure your branches will take up water.
As soon as you get them inside, put the ends in some water, and, if possible, submerge the whole branches overnight in a tub or sink to further force them out of dormancy. For the first few days keep the ends in a bucket of water in a cool place like a garage and make sure to keep misting the branches, keeping them covered with light plastic or burlap to maintain high levels of moisture. Change your water if it starts to look cloudy to prevent your branches from rotting.
After a week or so, when your flower buds are starting to bloom and show color, you should go ahead and set them out for display. Do not put them in full sunlight or a really warm area because they may dry up and you will lose your blossoms. Put them in a bright area and make sure they stay in a container with clean water, and they should last for a while. Moving them to a cooler place at night will also prolong their lifespan.
A list of shrubs and trees that you might want to try this with:
- Magnolia
- Hazel
- Apple
- Cherry
- Pear
- Wisteria
- Puince
- Forsythia
- mockorange
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Fruit trees can be a fun addition to your home, whether you are adding them to your garden outside or growing them in containers. Having a gorgeous citrus tree full of fruit on your patio or a cute blueberry bush in your garden full of colorful berries is really rewarding. However, many people forget to consider amount of time it takes for a young plant to produce fruit.
In truth, you must wait patiently. Most fruit trees will not fruit until they mature, which usually takes about three years. Fortunately, many of the trees we sell have grafted rootstock that decreases this time somewhat. But the key is patience and to take proper care of your tree while you wait.
If you are desperate, and your tree has long matured but is still not producing fruit, here is one way that you can force a tree to fruit. We do not recommend this method to the novice gardener because there is a very strong possibility that the tree will die. So, try this method at your own risk.
In spring, after the tree has budded, tie a wire tightly around the trunk. This will trap the sugars in the tree and force them into the buds. You will start to see a bulge above the wire in the tree. If it works, there will be fruit. If not, you might have to call someone to remove a stump. Like we said, it is quite the risk and should only be used as a last resort. As they say, ‘Nothing ventured, nothing gained!’
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